Tour Du Mont Blanc

Date: June 22-July 4 2022

Videos of our hike are posted on our YouTube channel.

The Tour Du Mont Blanc (TMB) is an epic hike. 

If you're reading this blog you probably already know that the hike is approximately 180km and takes you around the Mont Blanc Massif - through France, Italy and Switzerland. 

You need to book your accommodations on this hike many months in advance. It is a very popular hike. We had everything booked by January 2022, for a late June start. And even booking when we did, we did not get our first choices in accommodations. And that was during Covid when people were travelling less. So be prepared, book well in advance. Next time we do it we will probably aim to have everything booked at least 8 months out.

We decided to try for the very beginning of the hiking season, starting on June 22. In the planning phase, others had written about tackling snow and ice at the start of the hiking season. We did not have that experience. Summer of 2022 was very warm in Europe. By the time we started the hike the snow had all completely melted, the flowers were out in full bloom. The only ice that we experienced was a glacier we crossed early on in the hike. That said, you always should be prepared for any weather when you are hiking in the mountains. Storms can hit suddenly. And temperatures plummet at night.

When it comes to planning, there are different routes you can take along the way. For example, towards the end of the hike we wanted to do the Fenêtre d'Arpette route, whilst the other 3 members of our group wanted to take the 'easier' (though only marginally) and 'safer' route. To be clear, the Fenêtre d'Arpette is not unsafe if the weather is clear, and there is no snow. You also have to be physically prepared for jumping boulder to boulder with your pack. You can check the conditions the morning you plan to hike that section and make your decision then. If the fog is heavy it wouldn't be worth it to exert yourself that much and not get the view. 

Your route can also be affected by the available accommodation. And there are options along the way to make the hike easier or harder according to your preference. We were a group of 5 hikers, two couples and a single woman - we are all between 35-45 years old. We all took different routes and met back up. One couple did the first 3 days of hiking, then took a bus and train to get to Courmayeur and continued the hike from there. While the other three of us continued together until Refugio Elisabetta. Then early the next morning we parted ways, we opted for the long route, but our friend split and took the bus (just a short walk downhill from the refuge) into Courmayeur to meet up with the other couple. They continued the hike from there, up to our next refuge - Bertone. And that's where we met up with them. 

When researching for this trip there was not enough information about the food options along the route. We were coming to TMB from Canada, and we were nervous about what we would be packing for food. We do a lot of hiking here in Canada and usually we make our own dehydrated meals. It's a fraction of the cost of store-bought meals, fresher and no preservatives. Plus your options are only limited by your imagination. However, you cannot bring meat or dairy into Europe. From all the research we did, we figured that includes dry food. So we decided to make vegan meals. This was totally unnecessary though, since you can get food for breakfast and dinner wherever you choose to stay - even if you are free camping in France. When you have delicious, fresh European food close by, no one wants to reach for the dry camp food. No one. We ended up throwing out a bunch of the meals we had brought. The food you can get on TMB is fresh and affordable. And just so much better than dehydrated camp food.

Our advice is to budget for fresh meals. If you're crazy tight on cash, then of course do camp food. Just know that there are options. And you WILL want them. Plus not carrying your meals means less weight in your pack.

For lunches you can either pick up a packed lunch from your refuge - many offer a packed lunch. Or there are stores where you can get bread and meat and cheese. We had brought sachets of tuna (not cans) and had them on tortillas. The tuna was ok to bring into Europe. And of course, when you're hiking you need some kind of nut/seed snack for energy. We would recommend packing for just a few days (to reduce the weight you are carrying). You can restock in Chamonix or Courmayeur, and probably many other places in between.

The night before starting the hike we stayed in Chamonix. There is more happening in Chamonix than in Les Houches. But our friends stayed in Les Houches. We got a ride from Chamonix to Les Houches where we met up with them to begin the hike. You can walk the distance between the two - It would add approx 7km, but with not much benefit (i.e. not much to see). 

DAY 1 - Les Houches to Miage 

Time: 4h40m 
Distance: 8.69 km 
Elevation Gain: 477 m 
Elevation:  2129m Max 1564m Min

Watch day 1 here.

We started our hike on June 22, 2022 - which is very early in the season.

The day started a little rainy, but it soon cleared up. To cut out a big hike up with little views, we opted to take the cable car from Les Houches to Bellevue. It is €17.50 per person one way, and with the massive hike ahead of us was worth every euro.

There is plenty of signage along the way, so you won't get lost. 

Our original plan had been to end our first day in Les Contamines, but we opted for Miage instead. And we are so glad that we did. The descent from Col de Tricot to Refugio de Miage is huge. We could have made it the extra distance to Les Contamines, but it would have been a push. 

We strongly recommend knee support and hiking poles. We have done many hikes without, but since buying them it's hard to imagine how we ever did. And for the TMB you are going to want hiking poles. 

Descent into Miage

As of 2022 you can free camp in France, so that is what we did. There was some beautiful camping spots at Miage, but aim to stay on higher ground if possible. We had a storm hit that night and our friends tent got a little flooded. They had to move during the night, which is no fun - trust me. There were plenty of camping spots available here the night we stayed. There is a proper toilet available too. And you can get food and delicious pie at the refuge (even if you are not staying in the refuge).

Day 2 - Miage to Refuge de la Balme

Time: 6h34m 
Distance: 10.53 km
Elevation Gain: 1224 m 
Elevation:  2443m Max 1781m Min

June 23,2022

Watch day 2 here.

We woke to a beautiful, crisp, sunny morning - a welcome change after a stormy night.

Sunrise at Miage 

Our journey took us through Les Contamines, where we were able to get some fresh fruit at a grocery store, as well as some well deserved, yummy ice creams.

We got rained on, again. There was hail also. Not massive hail, but enough to know it was there. Tip: if you see dark clouds and sense rain is coming, put your rain gear on immediately. For some reason we waited until it was actually raining, and we got drenched. If possible, try for waterproof pants (Arcteryx have some great options). Those of us without waterproof pants had to stop and empty the water that was collecting inside our waterproof shoes. Many of the blogs that we read before doing the TMB said to bring 3 sets of clothes, including socks. After our experience we would say bring 4 pairs of socks, and if your weight/space allows for it, another set of clothes would be handy too.

Chalets du Truc

Again, we were in France so we did the free camping option rather than staying in a refuge. The camping area next to the Refuge de la Balme was much smaller than Miage. We recommend arriving early enough to ensure you get a spot. 

Refuge de la Balme - Campground in the background to the left

Walking between the Refuge and the Campsite

The refuge offers food and drink even if you aren't staying as a guest. However, you cannot be in the dining room when they are serving to their guests. The let us sit in there afterwards though, and use the wifi, which was awesome. They also had a washroom that campers could use. But with many users it can get a bit stinky...go early if you can lol

Day 3 - La Balme to Les Chapieux

Our devices died so we don't have exact stats for this day.

June 24, 2022

Watch day 3 here.

Two of our group turned back at this point, and went to Courmayeur for a couple rest days. They did not come with us to Les Chapieux.

Leaving Refuge de la Balme

We woke up to fog, which was pretty heavy in some areas. It made for a dramatic crossing of an icefield. It was the only ice we encountered on the TMB (other than the hail during a couple of storms...)

Ice field crossing

Ascent towards Col de la Croix

As we reached the pass it started to rain... then pour... then hail... 

Despite our rain gear we were soaked and freezing. When we saw a refuge we couldn’t have been happier. We were able to go inside and dry our shoes and socks by the fire. Meanwhile we had a plate of sausage and cheeses and a glass of wine. Followed up with a slice of delicious pie and a brownie. Just what our souls needed. 

Refuge du Col de la Croix

Refuge du Col de la Croix

Eventually the storm passed and the rain slowed down, so we grabbed our packs and started the descent down to Les Chapieux. The rugged green hills looked like a scene from Scotland (not that we’ve ever been). Stunningly beautiful and different from any of the other vistas on the TMB. 

Descent from Col de la Croix towards Les Chapieux

View to Les Chapieux

About half way down towards Les Chapieux the sun came out and it was hot. A welcome change.

Descent towards Les Chapieux... the grass was very slippery after the rain

Les Chapieux is a small town, with a refuge, a restaurant a small store, and a large and very clean public washroom. We met some young guys there doing the full TMB, and one was a burn victim. He was having trouble with his feet, so we shared our moleskin with him. We very strongly recommend always having moleskin with you. Our shoes were so good we never ended up needing to use it... but you just never know! 

Kay is very happy

There is a very large field to set up your campsite. When we arrived there were very few people in the field. Even mid-season we imagine you wouldn't struggle to get a site. We were still in France, so it was free!

Day 4 - Les Chapieux to Rifugio Elisabetta Soldini (France into Italy)

Time: 6h 24m 

Distance: 15.24km 

Elevation Gain: 1032m 

Elevation:  2515m Max 1558m Min

June 25, 2022

Watch day 4 here.

We woke very early as a herd of sheep passed our tent. They had bells around their necks. Which is so quaint and cute...just less so at 5am lol... it's all part of the experience. 

Side note: cowbells are heard all along the TMB, it’s a neat experience… except if you’re close to the herd. The bells are near deafening. We had to cover our ears sometimes because of how loud the bells get.

Once we were packed up, we headed over to the restaurant for some breakfast. Because of the timing, the inside of the restaurant was reserved for the refuge guests. But there was seating outside. 

Restaurant at Les Chapieux

Les Chapieux

We made a quick pitstop at the store to get some lunch stuffs and then hit the road.

Another day of stunning views, and mercifully no rain. After eating our lunch by the side of a stream, we decided to go slightly off route to check out the Refuge Les Mottets - and it was so worth it. We got to use their facilities, and get an ice cold cider to help us cool off.

Refuge Les Mottets

This stretch of the TMB was probably our favourite. The view on our second last day was probably the best. But this section had us awed the entire day. It was also one of our more tiring days. That may have been due in part to several nights sleeping in a tent, and the 5am herd alarm. We were very excited to be spending the night in the Refugio Elisabetta.

Approaching Col de la Seigne

Col de la Seigne - France into Italy

The Rifugio Elisabetta cost us €50 per person and was paid in cash on arrival. We didn’t 100% understand their website so we booked the dorm. We found out later we could have booked a room for 4 people and it just been the three of us (we had the impression that a fourth person would be added to the room, but apparently that’s not the case). Anyway the dorm was cheaper. It wasn’t however the best experience we ever had. The dorm is 6 x 3 level bunks all pushed together. But they book so that 7 people sleep on the 6 beds. That means if you’re not on one of the ends you end up on a crack. We complained, but they were like “that’s how we’ve always done it.” We tried to see if we could move to a higher level on the bunk, since they weren’t filled up yet - but again, the answer was no. They reserve the higher bunks for later arrivals (which tbh makes no sense to us!) So we stayed put on our lower bunks, but the three of us rotated 90 degrees so that none of us were falling between the mattresses. Probably the best decision we could have made. 

Bedtime at Rifugio Elisabetta

It gets worse… the showers leaked and flooded the corner of the dorm where our bags were stored. Thankfully most of our clothes were inside waterproof ziplock bags. But the few items that weren’t got drenched. We were less than impressed. 

Dinner was a redemption for them. It was so good. And there are chocolates and other snacks you can buy in the reception area. 

The shower situation was just ok. We were happy to have showers. But you get a coin to use the shower, so it’s timed. Our experience was that there was very little hot water. And there are too many people for too few showers. 

Day 5 - Refugio Elisabetta to Rifugio Bertone via Courmayeur 

Time: 8h 34m 
Distance: 23.47km 
Elevation Gain: 1254m 
Elevation:  2435m Max 1182m Min

June 26, 2022

Watch day 5 here. 

Breakfast at Rifugio Elisabetta was less than impressive. We were served a cup of black coffee and a couple of cookies - apparently a typical breakfast in Italy. Not enough to go hiking on. Thankfully we had booked a packed lunch, because an hour or so into our hike that served as our second breakfast- leaving us without a lunch. We had some snacks tho that we could nibble on. 

We set off from the refuge, which is an immediate descent. A nice way to start the day. Our friend decided to take the bus into Courmayeur and meet up with the rest of the group, while we decided to continue with the TMB route. We are very happy we did. More stunning views, and we love the challenge. 

Leaving Refugio Elisabetta

...and then there were two...

Whilst the route (and most of the TMB) is physically demanding, it’s not technically difficult. The only variant on the TMB we would not recommend for beginners, or people with vertigo or those who are scared of heights, is the Fenêtre D’Arpette. 

Don't get too close to the edge

Along the is the Checrouit Ski resort. We were so happy to be able to get a bite to eat and a cold refreshing drink. 

Approaching Checrouit Ski Resort - Courmayeur in the valley below

Checrouit Ski Resort

On the descent into Courmayeur from the ski lodge we somehow got turned around and ended up taking the road in rather than the trail. Try to avoid making our mistake. It wasn’t horrible - but we had little shade, and it may even have been a longer route. 

Stunning Courmayeur 

Our plan was to have a pizza in Courmayeur, but by the time we arrived we were doing some math and realized we might not have time to order anything. The Rifugio Bertone had told us that if we didn’t arrive by a certain time then they reserved the right to give our bed to someone else. We didn’t want to take that risk! 

The trail from Courmayeur to Bertone was a 700m ascent. Not the easiest way to end the day. But we made it in time for supper. The refuge again had the option of dorm style or private rooms. Three of us stayed in the dorm while the other two had a private room and bathroom. 

The shared dorm bathroom was ok. Better than Elisabetta. Again you get a token and have a limited time. Again the hot water situation wasn’t ideal. But at least it seemed a lot cleaner.  

The dorm beds were fantastic. The bunks are separated, so you get more privacy. And it’s just more comfortable and clean feeling.

Day 6 - Refugio Bertone to Val Ferret

Time: 6h 11m 
Distance: 14.53km 
Elevation Gain: 472m 
Elevation 2072m Max 1775m Min

June 27, 2022

Watch day 6 here.

After a good nights rest in comfortable bunk beds, we felt ready for another day of trekking. Again we were served a breakfast of black coffee and cookies, and a couple slices of bread. This time though, when we entered the dining area there were bowls set out at every table. So we assumed oatmeal or something else was coming. It turned out the bowls were actually the coffee cups. We were ok starting the day with a bowl of coffee! Once again, we had snacks that could see us through the day.

A hearty bowl of coffee to start the day

Leaving the refuge

enchanted forest vibes

And we were able to stop at yet another refuge to get some sustenance.

Rifugio Alpino Walter Bonatti

The food at Bonatti was phenomenal and the staff were so friendly!!

The signage on the TMB is excellent... you can't get lost!

Dean and Jon checking out the ruins

It was fun to be back together as a group, but we were not able to all book into the same place. Two of our friends were in Refugio Elena, while we were in Hotel Chalet Val Ferret. Both were extraordinary places to stay. Our friends really loved Elena. It was comfortable and had great food and great views. We were lower down in the valley, so we didn't have the same views - but it was a proper hotel. We were able to get a load of washing done (it cost 10 euros for wash and dry, and was delivered to our room). We had a hot shower and very comfortable beds in a warm room. The dinner and breakfast was amazing too. 

Day 7 - Val Ferret to La Fouly 

Time: 6h 43m 
Distance: 16.09km 
Elevation Gain: 748m 
Elevation 2547m Max 1768m Min

June 28, 2022

Watch day 7 here.

Chalet Val Ferret

We again woke to the threat of a storm, so we had to get a move on. The plan had been to meet up at Rifugio Elena and continue on as a group from there. But with the threat of the storm our friends just went ahead without us, thinking we would catch them up at the pass. We didn't.

The hike from Val Ferret to Grand Col Ferret was gorgeous. A little challenging, since it was a 750m ascent. And it felt like it was straight up. 

View back down to Val Ferret

Approaching Grand Col Ferret

Grand Col Ferret

At this pass we crossed from Italy into Switzerland. 

Here we were once again hit with a storm. It was so intense, the lightning and thunder were almost simultaneous. And the thunder was so loud. It was a really cool experience. Of course, it can be dangerous so we were hightailing it down from the pass. 

Great views despite the rain

On the descent there is the Refuge La Peule... where we were able to get a short respite from the rain, and get ourselves a yummy snack and warm up inside. The refuge was absolutely packed with drenched hikers. It was fun to hear everyone's stories and experiences.

Refuge La Peule

Refuge La Peule

When we headed out from the refuge it was still pouring rain with no glimmer of hope that it might stop. But we had to get to where we were going. We were aiming for a campground in La Fouly, which was still quite a ways. 

Crossing a landslide at Torrent Des Ars

It rained relentlessly that afternoon. Even when we reached la Fouly it was pouring rain. We couldn't think of anything worse than having to set up a tent in the rain, while we were soaked through... we searched for a hotel, refuge or airbnb that we could stay at instead - but there was literally nothing available. It is a very small town and not many options. But we did find a hotel room in the town of Orsieres, which was only a short bus ride from La Fouly. It meant missing one day of the hike - but apparently this is a "boring" section of the hike. We didn't do it, so we really can't say. But other people have written that it's a flat section where you're mostly in the forest - so no awesome mountain views. It was a hard decision to make, but the rain forced our hand. 

REST DAYS 

June 29&30, 2022  

See what we did here.

We spent one night in the hotel in Orieres, then the following 2 nights in an airbnb about half way up from Orsieres to Champex-Lac. 

The hotel that saved our wet hides

Our airbnb 

Our friend who at the time was living in Lucerne rode 5 hours on her motorbike to come spend a day with us, and deliver the second round of camp meals (we had posted to her before we started the hike, so that we wouldn't have to carry it the whole way). We ditched the camp food though and only took the snacks - as by this point we had learned that you can get amazing European food everywhere on the TMB and we had no need for the camp meals. 

Orsieres and Champex-Lac are beautiful areas with so much to see and explore. We hiked around the lake on our day off and took the chairlift up to La Breya and did a short hike there too. 

A stream near Champex-Lac

La Breya chairlift

Our airbnb is in the small cluster of homes on the hill to the left

Day 8 - Orsieres to Le Peuty 

Time: 7h 52m 
Distance: 16.08km 
Elevation Gain: 1051m 
Elevation:  2669m Max 1337m Min

July 1, 2022

Watch here.

After a well deserved rest, we were ready to continue on with our adventure. In hindsight we probably could have used the rest more around Courmayeur or Val Ferret. Courmayeur is the popular choice (and we can see why). But we were also very happy with our choice. 

We took the bus up to Champex-Lac from our airbnb, and from there split up. The three other members of our group were taking the typical TMB route, while we took the slightly more difficult Fenêtre D'Arpette. We've mentioned a couple times in our blog that this variant can be difficult and is not recommended if the weather is bad, or if there is still snow cover. We were very fortunate that we had warm weather leading up to our visit, and the weather that day was pretty decent. We did have a lot of fog, but thankfully no rain. And for a brief moment at the pass the clouds and fog cleared and we got the most epic view.

Here are some view from the two variants:

TMB Route:

Forest climbs

Jon lamenting the view that should have been...

Nearing Le Peuty - our destination for the night

A view from the bridge

Fenêtre D'Arpette:

Big boulders

Rocky climbs

The fog lifting for some dramatic views

Descent towards Le Peuty

In the final stretch before reaching the campsite Kay rolled her ankle. It wasn't too bad.. just bad enough to be annoying. 

When we reached Le Peuty it was almost sunset and our friends were getting worried about us. Thankfully we arrived with enough light to get our tent and sleeping pads all set up. A ranger came around for us to pay for our campsite. It was very straightforward, and great that we didn't have to go searching to figure out how to pay. We got a little tag for our tent so he didn't have to come and check us again.

After a quick bite to eat we went and found the most amazing hot chocolates of our lives... they may have been spiked ;-)

Happy Campers

We were treated to an amazing sunset

Exhausted from another epic day of adventure we settled in for the night to rest up for....

Day 9 -  Le Peuty to Trélechamps

Time: 8h 18m 
Distance 15.71km 
Elevation Gain 936m 
Elevation 2206m Max 1251m Min

July 2, 2022

Watch here.

...THE GRAND FINALE! 

This section of the hike has the most epic views of Mont Blanc. And we had the most crisp sunny day. It couldn't have been more perfect. 

To start the day is an ascent through the forest. Every so often there are clearings were you get nice views back to Le Peuty or of surrounding valleys/ridges. 

At the Col du Balme we passed from Switzerland back into France. From here it was nothing but awe-inspiring, breathtaking views. 

View from Col du Balme 

You can stop at the refuge du Col du Balme for a delicious lunch, refreshing drink and possibly the best refuge view of the hike. 

We just couldn't get enough!! 

That night we camped in Tré-le-Champ. There is a small area next to the refuge La Boerne where you can camp for free. 

We recommend arriving early to ensure you get a spot. 

There are indoor toilets and showers that the campers can use (separate from the refuge guests). It was a very long wait in the morning to use the toilet. 

As with all the refuges we visited along the way, you can purchase food and drinks. 

Day 10 - Trélechamps to Chamonix

July 3, 2022 

Our last day! We took our time getting ready in the morning, packing up and having breakfast. 

It was going to be a short walk today... but it ended up being shorter than we had planned. 

Since Kay had rolled her ankle 2 days prior, and then hiked on it for almost 16km, she wasn't feeling able to complete the hike. We decided to stick together as a group - so we all walked together to the train station in Montroc-le-Planet and this is where we finished the TMB. 

Hopefully we get a chance to do this hike again. And complete the full circuit. 

We think that next time we will plan to stay at refuges the whole way, and not bring our tent at all. We also will be able to plan better knowing that food is available the whole way. 

We hope that this will inspire you to go do the Tour Du Mont Blanc. You won't regret it!

Dean & Kay

Q&A

Here are a few questions that we have been asked about the hike. Feel free to post any questions in the comments section. 

Did you fly to Europe with only your hiking gear?

No. We planned to spend 3 weeks total in Europe - so we needed to have more than just our hiking gear. Of course we did not want to carry anything extra on the hike - so in advance we made arrangements with our hotel to store our luggage. This is very common and probably most accommodations will offer storage. Some places will charge for storage. We got ours stored for free.

Did you wear hiking shoes or boots?

The big debate... when we were planning for the trip we had always worn boots on our hikes. But for a 10 day hike in summer we just weren't sure if we wanted to wear boots. We opted for hiking shoes, and we really loved them. They were very comfortable, easier to put on than boots, and lighter - which surely made a difference in how we felt at the end of each day. 

The flip side is that boots will give better ankle support. Perhaps Kay wouldn't have hurt her ankle if she had worn boots. Or maybe it wouldn't have made a difference.

What is the best place to start the TMB?

There are several options, but the two main choices are Chamonix, France or Courmayeur, Italy. They are the two largest towns on the TMB, and probably the easiest to get to if you're taking public transport. We started in Chamonix (well, technically we started in Les Houches), and we were really happy with our choice. We also hiked counterclockwise around the massif. You get better views this way. 

When to book TMB?

Be prepared to book at least 6 months in advance. You don't need to have a tour guide or anything like that - the TMB is well sign posted and easy to navigate. But the refuges book up fast. Research well in advance to know the route that you want to take, and then book as early as possible to ensure you get your first choice in accommodations.

How much does TMB cost?

The hike itself is free. If you only do the France section and plan to camp you can technically do it for free. 

If you plan on staying in refuges, budget for approximately €80 per day for accommodations and food. More if you plan on having an alcoholic drink every day.